by Teryn Darling October 20, 2022
|Temp: Warm||Temp: Extremely Warm|
|Light to Dark Value: 3||Light to Dark Value: 3|
|Base: Warm Yellow & Orange Inorganic||Base: Orange Inorganic|
Do you know what makes Gray Vanish and Un-Grey different? Do you know when to use each? With similar names and both being modifiers, these correctors can get confusing for some artists.
Gray Vanish is an inorganic Warm, Yellow-Orange based modifier. If you’re working on slightly to moderately cool skin and need to add warmth, this is it! Gray Vanish is for adding warmth to the lighter, medium and dark colors when working on slightly to moderately cool skin. Generally, this means Fitzpatrick I-III skin types!
You can also use Gray Vanish to correct medium saturated gray or blue eyebrows to achieve a soft brown. Think of Gray Vanish as a lighter, more golden version of Un-Grey.
Un-Grey is an Orange based inorganic modifier that qualifies as Extremely Warm. Warmer than Gray Vanish, Un-Grey is meant for adding warmth to any medium-dark to dark eyebrow color for skin that is moderately to extremely cool.
Un-Grey was formulated specifically for the correction of stubborn dark gray, charcoal gray or stubborn darker blue brows.
We don’t recommend using this modifier with blonde or light colors or on most light skin. Generally speaking, this modifier should be used on Fitz IV-V skin types.
You can also use Un-Grey to correct darker, more saturated gray or blue eyebrows. This modifier may be added in a very small amount of Un-Grey to black eyeliner colors for clients with very cool eyelid undertones to maintain the blackness of the pigment in the skin to prevent the liner from bluing.
Both Gray Vanish and Un-Grey are Inorganic modifiers used to add warmth to the target color. They should never be used as a standalone pigment on virgin skin. Use Gray Vanish to warm up light colors and to correct light, sheer blues and grays. Un-Grey is intensely concentrated and an extremely small amount should be used; a little goes a very long way.
Remember: You only want to add the amount of extra warmth the skin needs, no more! If you add too much warmth, more than the skin needs, then the coolness in the skin will not absorb all the warmth you just added and there will be left over warmth, either immediately healed or as it ages. There will be many skin types that need NO extra warmth, their skin does not require it. If you need help to determine levels of coolness, skin undertones, using warm modifiers, choosing the correct pigment or anything color theory I highly recommend taking my 9 hour color theory recorded class.
by Teryn Darling December 01, 2022Read More